If I had to rank my favourite Cos in order from least to most harmonious, my cosmic list would be: the contraction of 'because', the Romaine lettuce, the ratio of the adjacent to the hypotenuse, and finally wines from Azienda Agricola COS.
Whilst the volcanic wines of Mt Etna are so hot right now, Azienda Agricola COS have been instrumental in shining some eruptive light on the rest of the island of Sicily: pioneers of the island's biodynamic movement, makers of natural Terre Siciliane IGT wines, and defenders of the DOCG status of Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
COS was established in 1980 when three friends, Giambattista (Titta) Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino (Rino) Strano, collected their initials and purchased an old family winery in the historic town of Bastonaca, Vittoria in the island's south.
The youngest winemakers Italy had to offer at the time, the COS ragazzi all completed their oenological studies whilst already having the practical side down with a few vintages of their own. Although changes to the ownership and number and size of the vineyards has changed over the years, one thing remains: the trio's dream to recreate wines in the way their ancestors once did.
Replacing the winery barrels with amphora or "Pithos" in the early 2000s, COS has a well-respected cult status in following the ancient traditions of aging the wines in clay jars that create a much more natural expression of the grapes. The wild-fermented, skin-contact whites are all deliciously clean, saline and moreish, and the rosso celebrates the single variety of Frappato; once overlooked as only a blending partner to Nero dAvola, the COS Frappato is racy and energetic. All in the range are perfect for summer; enjoy with sardines and grilled vegetables as you dream of their island home in the Mediterranean.
If you are looking for wines from the right-angled triangular island of Sicily that take a slightly different Tangent, try a COS. It's a Sin of the good times, new and old.