These days the price of this wine is above Pur Sang, which gives you an indication of how highly the Domaine rates this site. Buisson Renard is a cool, mid-slope terroir on the southwest side of the Saint-Andelain slope. Here the soils are a mixture of clay and flint (or silex, as the French call it). The vineyard area is actually named Buisson Menard, as was the wine originally, but a wine writer mistakenly reviewed the wine as Buisson Renard. ‘Renard’ means fox in French and ‘buisson’ means bush, so the error gave the wine a name that sounded like ‘fox bush’ or ‘bush of the fox’. Didier Dagueneau fell about laughing and immediately renamed the wine.
This was barrel fermented and aged in Dagueneau’s bespoke, cigar-shaped barrels (450 and 600 litres) which are designed to increase lees contact. As always, this is a wonderfully layered and textured wine, perhaps with even more fat than normal, superbly contained thanks to the wine’s acidity and extract. There are superb preserved lemon, nettle and golden delicious notes and a gently powdery close with that unerring tension and drive also found in both the Pur Sang and Silex. - Importer Note
Didier Dagueneau: the iconoclastic winemaker that changed a variety - Sauvignon Blanc - and a region forever. A rogue by nature, Didier was a thrill seeker and risk taker. Be it motorcycle racing, dog sled racing (which he won European and World Championships competing in) or winemaking, Didier set out to challenge the existing conventions. He applied his relentless drive, impeccable standards and attention to detail to succeed in whatever he set his sights on.
Didier was the fourth generation of winemaker in his family. He was deeply influenced by his father Louis Dagueneau, as well as luminaries such as Denis Dubourdieu, who managed many top estates in Bordeaux, and one of the kings of Burgundy, the great Henri Jayer. We talk about influencers a lot these days - these are the kind of influencers that actually matter. These prominent figures in Didier's life helped shape his style, views and beliefs about the importance of terroir and how best to express it, utilising modern techniques in the winery with a very traditional and timeless approach in the vineyard.
This balance of old and new is what sets Didier apart from so many of the pack. The understanding that the soil is the soul of the vineyard and needs to be respected means extra attention is required in the vineyard at all times. The Domaine employs nearly double the vineyard workers of other wineries in their region. They avoid the usage of tractors in most sites to avoid soil compaction and only minimal application of treatments in the vineyard including copper, which many organic and biodynamic vineyards use far from sparingly!
They crop at yields that are on average 75% lower than their neighbours and all grapes are hand picked and manually de-stemmed. The fruit is gently pressed in the cellar, cold settled and then racked into unique cigar-shaped barrels for fermentation. The wine is then left on lees for a year in oak and racked to stainless steel to rest for another six months. The wines are not fined or filtered so as to retain their purity, and no enzymes are used to treat the wines either.
Upon release the wines are tightly coiled, precise and detailed expressions of Sauvignon Blanc that are closer to White Burgundy in style than any New World Sauvignon Blanc that we know of. Like great White Burgundy and unlike most Sauvignon Blanc, these wines are meant to be aged and with cellaring the wines expand in presence, weight, power and poise. These wines are right at the top of the apex of white wines produced globally, and arguably the best expressions of Sauvignon Blanc produced.
|Product Type||Wine White Sauvignon Blanc|
|Sub Region||Pouilly Fume|