Tasting Notes
Biodynamic. Although this wine is 100% Vouvray it is not permitted to be labelled as such because it is fermented and aged across the river in Montlouis. The AOC law states that if a wine is to be labelled ‘Vouvray’, it must be matured within the boundaries of Vouvray itself. For some reason the French authorities have now started cracking down on this (when in the past it was typically ignored) and so Chidaine, whose cellars are in nearby Montlouis, has been forced to drop the use of the Vouvray AOC from his labels. In addition, the word ‘clos’ cannot be applied to a Vin de France! So for now, the wine that should be known as Clos Baudoin Vouvray—for the legendary vineyard where it is grown—is currently simply sold as Baudoin.
Regardless, as followers will know, since purchasing the Clos in 2001, Chidaine’s biodynamic management has re-set Clos Baudoin on its throne as one of the few ‘Grand Cru’ Vouvray vineyards. On the crest of a hill and elevated over the surrounding countryside, the Clos Baudoin vineyard is 2.7 hectares in size with an average vine age of over 70 years. The soils are clay and limestone, with a deep limestone (tuffeau) subsoil. - Importer Note
In France's Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc might be synonymous with the famed region of Vouvray, but François Chidaine has put the smaller, lesser known Montlouis sur Loire on the map.
Yes, Chidaine has done for Chenin in the Loire what Didier Dagueneau did for its Sauvignon Blanc, creating a renaissance of winemaking in Montlouis and resuscitating sites in Vouvray. His reputation amongst Loire vignerons should bring no surprise that in his youth, Dagueneau's own son Benjamin sought to gain experience from Chidaine.
Although Chidaine's Vouray vineyard wine, the Baudoin, is declassified to Vin de France on account of it being vinified across the river border, the collection really speaks of the terroir of Montlouis. Les Bournais is perhaps the the most "Vouvray-esque" of the Montlouis, but even the Chenin d'Ailleur, the Chenin "from another place" really echoes Chidaine's spirit of Montlouis. First made in 2016 when Chidaine lost most of his fruit to ferocious frosts, the Fort family in Limoux, Languedoc offered up part of their Chenin harvest to the Chenin Master. Despite more ideal conditions in the Loire over the past years, the relationship has weathered the storm, now with the third vintage of the Vin de France as a more playful and juicy offering amongst Chidaine's classic style.
The Montlouis sur Loire wines from François Chidaine are deep, powerful, layered and textural. Whole bunch, wild ferment and long ageing on lees in larger format neutral oak with a very considerate, hands off approach in the cellar gently guide these wines to bottle. A true master.
| Product Type | Wine White Chenin Blanc |
| Volume | 750ml |
| Country | France |
| Region | Loire Valley |
| Sub Region | Montlouis |
| Winemaking Practices | Minimal Intervention |
| Vineyard Practices | Organic/Biodynamic |