Tasting Notes
As always, this sublime bottling is drawn from a series of clay-rich Vouvray sites that surround the Clos Baudoin. Set away from the river, these sites are mostly populated by 40 year old bush vines, grown on deep, chalky clay over a subsoil of limestone. The fruit is hand harvested with multiple passes through the vineyards and the wine spends 11 months on fine lees. Fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts and ageing is on lees in wooden barrels (demi-muids) of 600-litre capacity for around eleven months (in total). This wine is 100% Vouvray but is not permitted to be labelled as such because it is fermented and aged across the river in Montlouis. The AOC law (in a section that has historically been ignored) states that if a wine is to be labelled Vouvray, it must be matured within the boundaries of Vouvray itself. For some reason the French authorities have now started cracking down on this (when in the past it was typically ignored) and so Chidaine, whose cellars are in nearby Montlouis, is forced to drop the use of the Vouvray AOC from his labels. No matter, the vineyard name, the region (even though no longer listed on the label) and the quality of the wine remains! - Importer Note
In France's Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc might be synonymous with the famed region of Vouvray, but François Chidaine has put the smaller, lesser known Montlouis sur Loire on the map.
Yes, Chidaine has done for Chenin in the Loire what Didier Dagueneau did for its Sauvignon Blanc, creating a renaissance of winemaking in Montlouis and resuscitating sites in Vouvray. His reputation amongst Loire vignerons should bring no surprise that in his youth, Dagueneau's own son Benjamin sought to gain experience from Chidaine.
Although Chidaine's Vouray vineyard wine, the Baudoin, is declassified to Vin de France on account of it being vinified across the river border, the collection really speaks of the terroir of Montlouis. Les Bournais is perhaps the the most "Vouvray-esque" of the Montlouis, but even the Chenin d'Ailleur, the Chenin "from another place" really echoes Chidaine's spirit of Montlouis. First made in 2016 when Chidaine lost most of his fruit to ferocious frosts, the Fort family in Limoux, Languedoc offered up part of their Chenin harvest to the Chenin Master. Despite more ideal conditions in the Loire over the past years, the relationship has weathered the storm, now with the third vintage of the Vin de France as a more playful and juicy offering amongst Chidaine's classic style.
The Montlouis sur Loire wines from François Chidaine are deep, powerful, layered and textural. Whole bunch, wild ferment and long ageing on lees in larger format neutral oak with a very considerate, hands off approach in the cellar gently guide these wines to bottle. A true master.
| Product Type | Wine White Chenin Blanc |
| Volume | 750ml |
| Country | France |
| Region | Loire Valley |
| Sub Region | Vouvray |
| Winemaking Practices | Minimal Intervention |
| Vineyard Practices | Organic/Biodynamic |