Francois Chidaine Les Choisilles Montlouis Blanc 2018

In France's Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc might be synonymous with the famed region of Vouvray, but François Chidaine has put the smaller, lesser known Montlouis sur Loire on the map.

Yes, Chidaine has done for Chenin in the Loire what Didier Dagueneau did for its Sauvignon Blanc, creating a renaissance of winemaking in Montlouis and resuscitating sites in Vouvray. His reputation amongst Loire vignerons should bring no surprise that in his youth, Dagueneau's own son Benjamin sought to gain experience from Chidaine.

Although Chidaine's Vouray vineyard wine, the Baudoin, is declassified to Vin de France on account of it being vinified across the river border, the collection really speaks of the terroir of Montlouis. Les Bournais is perhaps the the most "Vouvray-esque" of the Montlouis, but even the Chenin d'Ailleur, the Chenin "from another place" really echoes Chidaine's spirit of Montlouis. First made in 2016 when Chidaine lost most of his fruit to ferocious frosts, the Fort family in Limoux, Languedoc offered up part of their Chenin harvest to the Chenin Master. Despite more ideal conditions in the Loire over the past years, the relationship has weathered the storm, now with the third vintage of the Vin de France as a more playful and juicy offering amongst Chidaine's classic style.

The Montlouis sur Loire wines from François Chidaine are deep, powerful, layered and textural. Whole bunch, wild ferment and long ageing on lees in larger format neutral oak with a very considerate, hands off approach in the cellar gently guide these wines to bottle. A true master.