From 65 year old vines, Geoffroy's Vieilles Vignes cuvée draws its depth and structure from the well-sited En Songe, Combe and Champerrier lieux-dits, all on the Brochon side of the village. The '13 sports a spotlessly fresh raspberry and dark cherry fragrance, seductively juicy fruit nuanced by suggestions of dark chocolate and licorice. There is some well judged oak, excellent depth, and ripe powdery tannins on the fresh, energetic finish. Already singing its lungs out.
Top Value, Outstanding. A more deeply pitched nose offers up plenty of classic Gevrey character with its restrained nose of dark berries, earth, sauvage and humus aromas. There is ample punch to the robust and serious middle weight flavors that exhibit more minerality on the long and moderately austere finale. This will need a few years of bottle age before it will be completely civilized. Recommended. 89-91 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 57
Gérard Harmand and his son Philippe produce archetypal Gevrey Chambertin from a superb range of terroirs. They have remarkable, old vine holdings in Lavaux St Jacques, Champeaux, Perrière and La Bossiere (Monopole), as well as a healthy slice of the Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin. If you love classic Gevrey with site transparency, lifted aromatics, fresh, crunchy fruit and fine, powdery tannins, then these wines are for you.
Many changes have occurred at this Domaine over the last five years. Only perfect fruit now makes it into the wines and very gentle handling of fruit, must and wine is the order of the day. There is now a strict sorting of bunches in the vineyard and then again via a sorting table, when the grapes arrive in the winery. Tannin and colour extraction now occurs via gentle pump-overs as opposed to punch-downs. This results in far finer tannins. Also, all mechanical pumps have been removed from the winery and now gas pressure and gravity are used to move the must/wine. The wines are also moved as little as possible. With top-drawer fruit and now with more attention to detail in the winery, this Domaine's star is certainly on the rise. The wines are now much stronger, more intense and are a joy to drink. And while quality has only risen since 2005, prices remain truly modest: testament to the integrity of this Domaine.
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