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ACellars Newsletter, 22nd April, 2021

by Annandale Cellars

 

L'OCTAVIN

"The labels are right up there with the best in the game. Cartoon psychedelic gnomes? Take my money." Pete L

 

Alice Bouvot is the charismatic and energetic winemaker behind the L'Octavin label. Every vintage she manages to produce an astonishing number of different cuvees in her tiny winery in Arbois. And every year, they are some of the most exciting, wild and vital wines that hit our shelves.

Alice trained as a winemaker in Bordeaux and Burgundy. But when it came to establishing her own domaine, there was never any question as to where she would be based.

She purchased a tiny 2 hectare plot in Arbois in 2005, with a small cellar, and began producing what she calls "pur jus." That is to say, wine with no additions whatsoever - no cultured yeasts, no adjustments, no sulphur - just completely natural wines.

Over the years, Alice has been able to expand her operations. She now farms over 5 hectares, with several holdings in some of the region’s very best lieu-dits, such as En Curon, La Mailloche, Les Nouvelles and Les Corvées. All of her vines are tended by hand and farmed biodynamically, with wild grasses, weeds, insects, and animals all creating a true and diverse ecosystem amongst the vines.

In addition to her own holdings, Alice also sources fruit from grower friends that follow her natural ideals, allowing her to produce a brilliant range of negociant wines to add to her ever-growing portfolio. These wines are vinified in exactly the same way as her estate wines - nothing added, nothing taken away.

All of her wines display a lightness of touch, and a wonderful energy and vibrancy. As reflected in the "cartoon psychedelic gnome" labels, these are fun and engaging wines, that are full of life and energy, and absolutely delicious!

See the collection here!

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FRESH DROPS

 

This week we've got some Fresh Drops from Jura stalwart Michel Gahier - a producer we look forward to every year. His suite of wines have flown under the radar in the Australian market, often overshadowed by the more hyped producers of the Jura. But his wines are classic examples of the bounty this region has to offer; meticulously made and sourced from some of the oldest vines in the region.

Michel makes some of the purest expressions of Trousseau, from a variety of sites in Montigny, split across several cuvees, that highlight vine age and terroir. His whites, especially the Les Follasses Chardonnay, are always a highlight each release and wines that Pete looks forward to every year. In fact, it was a Gahier Chardonnay that was one of the first wines to trigger his love for the Jura (when he's not drinking Loire Chenin Blanc!) and will certainly be a wine he's looking to take home - so get in before him!

We were lucky enough to get our hands on a bottle of the Michel Gahier Le Clousot Trousseau 2018 and knew it would be perfect for our next installment of Is It Called Wine Time?!

For more information about Michel Gahier and his wines check the collection here.

And click here to see the latest episode of Is It Called Wine Time?!

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Domaine Leflaive

Domaine Leflaive is arguably the most established Domaine in Puligny Montrachet. An estate that has been in the Leflaive family since 1717.
Until 2015 the estate was under the control of Anne Claude Leflaive who sadly passed away in 2015. Anne Claude’s stewardship of the domaine from the early 90’s reinvigorated the entire estate and put Domaine Leflaive on the map as a pioneer of biodynamic farming in Burgundy.

Today, the Domaine is under the control of Brice de la Morandiere, with the winemaking overseen by Eric Remy, who took over from Pierre Morey in 2008. The wines are classic in their outlook, aged for 12 months - typically in 25% new oak and then transferred to tank for settling over the winter. The pinnacle of white Burgundy: superb, refined, deep and elegant.

See the Leflaive collection here.

 

Meo-Camuzet

Situated in the heart of Vosne-Romanee, Domaine Meo-Camuzet is one of the most sought after estates in Burgundy. It was only in 1988, however, that Meo-Camuzet stopped leasing their vineyards and selling their fruit to other producers, and began the journey of becoming one of the most celebrated domaines.

Originally founded by Etienne Camuzet at the turn of the 20th century, the foundations for what the Domaine would eventually become were built on Etienne's ability to pick out the best parcels in the Cote d'Or. Throughout his lifetime, he increased his holdings significantly, ultimately holding 2.5 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards including Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, Echezeaux, Corton Clos Rognet, Corton Les Perrières, and Corton La Vigne au Saint. The Domaine also holds 8 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards throughout the Cote d'Or.

Flash forward, and today the Domaine is run by Jean-Nicolas Meo (a distant relative of Camuzet) and Christian Faurois. Perhaps one of the pillars of Meo-Camuzet's success comes from the fact that when Jean-Nicolas took the reins in 1985, and began claiming back the leased vineyards, he called on one of Burgundy's brightest stars for guidance: Henri Jayer. For three years, Jayer mentored Jean-Nicolas during the transition, and finally decided to retire in 1988.

Thoughtful and organic viticulture, strict bunch sorting and careful handling in the cellar, allow Jean-Nicolas to produce some exceptional wines year after year. It's no surprise these wines are so highly sought after.

Take a look at the Meo-Camuzet wines here.

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