
Tasting Notes
This is the Domaine’s only wine that is not terroir- or soil-specific and is produced from a blend of four vineyards. Two are plots situated away from the Saint-Andélain hill—one parcel of 15-20 year old vines on flinty-clay soils and another in the lieu-dit of Les Coques on limestone/marl (white clay) soil. This fruit is blended with young-vine parcels from Le Bois de Saint-Andélain itself. With these vineyards decimated by frost we have very little to go around. This is always the Domaine’s most direct and accessible expression of Pouilly-Fumé. It is also a wine that has improved drastically under the direction of Benjamin Dagueneau and now comes far closer to the other wines in the range in quality and class. It was fermented in a mix of new and three- to four-year-old barrels and then matured in both wood and tank.
It’s an invigorating and complex wine with a core of jasmine and ripe nectarine fruit, shot through with flint, oyster shell and chervil. The palate has lovely depth and flesh, leading to a long, grippy and saline crescendo. It’s early days, but this is very impressive already. [The musical score depicted on the label was composed by François Cristin, a musician friend of Didier Dagueneau. It is written for trumpet (b flat major) and French horn (f major). The first line is taken from a famous song by Georges Brassens (a French singer-songwriter and poet), and the next four lines are Cristin's personal interpretation of that theme.] - Importer Note
Didier Dagueneau: the iconoclastic winemaker that changed a variety - Sauvignon Blanc - and a region forever. A rogue by nature, Didier was a thrill seeker and risk taker. Be it motorcycle racing, dog sled racing (which he won European and World Championships competing in) or winemaking, Didier set out to challenge the existing conventions. He applied his relentless drive, impeccable standards and attention to detail to succeed in whatever he set his sights on.
Didier was the fourth generation of winemaker in his family. He was deeply influenced by his father Louis Dagueneau, as well as luminaries such as Denis Dubourdieu, who managed many top estates in Bordeaux, and one of the kings of Burgundy, the great Henri Jayer. We talk about influencers a lot these days - these are the kind of influencers that actually matter. These prominent figures in Didier's life helped shape his style, views and beliefs about the importance of terroir and how best to express it, utilising modern techniques in the winery with a very traditional and timeless approach in the vineyard.
This balance of old and new is what sets Didier apart from so many of the pack. The understanding that the soil is the soul of the vineyard and needs to be respected means extra attention is required in the vineyard at all times. The Domaine employs nearly double the vineyard workers of other wineries in their region. They avoid the usage of tractors in most sites to avoid soil compaction and only minimal application of treatments in the vineyard including copper, which many organic and biodynamic vineyards use far from sparingly!
They crop at yields that are on average 75% lower than their neighbours and all grapes are hand picked and manually de-stemmed. The fruit is gently pressed in the cellar, cold settled and then racked into unique cigar-shaped barrels for fermentation. The wine is then left on lees for a year in oak and racked to stainless steel to rest for another six months. The wines are not fined or filtered so as to retain their purity, and no enzymes are used to treat the wines either.
Upon release the wines are tightly coiled, precise and detailed expressions of Sauvignon Blanc that are closer to White Burgundy in style than any New World Sauvignon Blanc that we know of. Like great White Burgundy and unlike most Sauvignon Blanc, these wines are meant to be aged and with cellaring the wines expand in presence, weight, power and poise. These wines are right at the top of the apex of white wines produced globally, and arguably the best expressions of Sauvignon Blanc produced.
Product Type | Wine White Sauvignon Blanc |
Volume | 750ml |
Country | France |
Region | Loire Valley |
Sub Region | Pouilly Fume |
Winemaking Practices | Natural |
Vineyard Practices | Organic/Biodynamic |